Fans of America's Next Top Model will recall that during Cycle 3 the final 6 contestants were sent to Japan where they posed in extravagant kimono from top designers as well as cutting edge modern Japanese fashions.  The kimono is not a popular form of clothing in modern Japan.  It was a rare sight in Tokyo, however, in Matsuyama in the arcade near the ANA Hotel there were several shops offering ready-to-wear and custom kimono.

The kimono shown to the right has long sleeves and would be worn by a young unmarried woman.  The long sleeves are called furisode.  The colors of young women's kimono are bright and patterns may be bold.  A girl will wear her first kimono at age 7.  At age 20, she would wear the furisode style sleeve kimono on January 15 as a coming of age ceremony.  Since kimono can be quite expensive and are infrequently worn, a kimono rental market has sprung up to meet the need for ceremonial occasions.

Kimono are one size fits all. The length is adjusted using a first belt or koshi-himo.   A second belt called the date-jimi covers the first belt.  The wide sash called an obi is then wrapped twice around the kimono.  The obi worn by young women are colorful and may be elaborately embroidered.  Formal obi are 12 feet long and when doubled over about 30 inches wide.  The obi-jimi is a cord tied around the obi. 

Silk kimono can cost thousands of dollars and become family heirlooms that require special care.  Because kimono are made of panels of fabric, traditional cleaning required that the kimono be taken apart and then put back together.  Storage of kimono is nearly as complicated as donning one. 

The heavy weight of the kimono prevents it from being hung on a conventional hanger.  It should be hung on a horizontal bar as shown in the store window displays or carefully folded for flat storage in a dry dark location to prevent mildew and fading from exposure to light.

Notice that the kimono is wrapped with the left side over the right.  This is an important detail to remember since a kimono wrapped the other direction is worn in death and indicates the body is ready for cremation! 

The kimono is worn over a simple undergarment called the juban that has a collar.  Some modern kimono have fasteners along the neckline to attach a separate collar called eri-sugata that's cooler than the two piece juban.  As with the kimono the undergarments are one-size fits all although in more tourist oriented shops there are small, medium, and large sizes. 

Married women wear kimono with shorter sleeves called tomesode. Colors of these kimono were more subdued and conservative.  We observed women wearing these kimono to weddings and banquets that were held at the ANA Hotel.  We also saw the more elegant subdued kimono worn to Christmas parties in Tokyo at the Keio Plaza.

Brides may wear the shiromuku, a heavy embroidered white kimono with an ornate headpiece.  This is usually rented for the wedding.  The couple in the picture to the right were taking wedding portraits in the garden of Matsuyama castle.  The woman wearing more modern Japanese attire is the photographer who used the gorgeous fall foliage and historic scenery of the castle grounds as a backdrop to highlight the traditional style of the wedding clothing.

The groom is attired in a pleated split-pant skirt called the hakama.  The wedding hakama is usually worn with a kimono of silk bearing the family crest and a half-length coat called a haori.  The groom usually wears black, but the groom we saw wore a more modern blue color.

The hakama began as the garment of a samurai horsemen and resemble the chaps worn by cowboys of the American west.  In some respect the hakama served a similar purpose in protecting the horsemen's legs from brush.  Even after the samurai transitioned from horsemen to foot soldiers, they continued to wear the hakama as a distinctive style of clothing.  

Two more examples of the hakama worn with a man's kimono are shown.  The photo to the left was taken during a poetry performance.  Note that the sides of the hakama are open.  The kimono worn under the hakama is full length.  Like the women's kimono, it is wrapped first over the body from the right, then overlapped on the outside from the left.  The man's kimono may be worn with a lightweight wrapped undergarment like a tee-shirt.  Unlike the women's undergarment, the men's does not have a collar.

The photo  on the right is of a distinguished martial arts sensei.  Notice that the sleeves of his garment, a gi, are not as full because jujitsu involves grasping of the opponents clothing as well as kicking. 

Whereas women were seen wearing the kimono for special events, men were more likely to be seen wearing Western-style suits.  The hakama, kimono, and haori for men seemed to be reserved for ceremonial occasions.

The young ladies to the left are on holiday at a ryokan in Matsuyama.  They have rented their outfits which represent a fashion unique to this region of Japan.  The young man in the modern clothing just jumped in to have his picture taken with four beautiful girls. 

One of the pleasures of staying at a ryokan (traditional inn) is being able to relax in a yukata.  The yukata is a summer kimono made of cotton.  Yukata literally means bath underclothing and it feels as comfortable as a bathrobe.    Each ryokan has a signature print for its yukata.  We stayed at a rather luxurious ryokan with an onsen (hot spring spa) for which Matsuyama is famous.

The yukata does not have an undergarment like the kimono.  It is worn with tabi socks and sandals.  I did cheat a bit and wear leggings since I never quite mastered the graceful rolling rise from a kneeling to standing position.

Like the kimono the yukata has wide sleeves and the length is adjusted by rolling up the robe fabric at the waist.  The yukata is secured with a belt.   When the yukata is worn as a kimono, a wider constrasting sash is used in place of the yukata belt.  The sash is a long strip of fabric that wraps twice around the waist before being secured with a knot and tucked in on the sides.  Small obi-likebelts can be purchased to wear with the yukata in the summer for a dressier look.  

While the Japanese are quite conscientious about recycling and reusing materials, they have an aversion to second-hand clothing.  That turned out to be just fine with our group of teachers in Matsuyama. Our final evening at the ANA Hotel found several of us happily rummaging through bins of used haori and kimonos at a small corner shop near the hotel.  At $5.00 a garment, we were satisfied customers contributing to the Japanese economy.  I wish I could have read the shop owner's mind as we tried on items, critiqued each other's choices, and throuroghly enjoyed our bargain hunting. Space in the suitcase was the only limiting factor.

The strong smell of mothballs clinging to the two haori and the kimono that I purchased did require a trip to the dry cleaners upon my return home. Once freshened up, the haori have made comfortable jackets with dresses, pants, and skirts. It is a conversation starter to say the least. 

The kimono is carefully stored and will probably be used for educational purposes more than as apparel.  In spite of wonderful directions available on the Internet, I cannot figure out how to wrap, secure, and finish off the used obi that I purchased.  It's a lovely piece of embroidery that may yet end up as a wall hanging. 

The two yukata that I purchased at the hotel gift shop have been well worn.  To borrow a phrase from the "Lion King."  hakuna yukata, what a wonderful robe.  Love my yukata and it's always worn left over right since I am in no hurry to be cremated.

What has become of the kimono-clad lady in the rickshaw?  Today she wears pumps and a suit, rides the subway, and works in an office. 

For more information about tradtional Japanese clothing:  Japensekimono.com